Today’s walk was about 7 miles along gorgeous coastline. The day had about 875′ total ascent, which was mainly from dips in the path along the coast — there were a handful of spots where we dropped down to cross a stream coming out to the sea and then back up again.
We decided to get a slow start today, initially because we wanted to stop at the Maritime Museum in Nefyn. The museum was closed by the time we arrived yesterday, but as it happens it wasn’t open at all today so we were out of luck. Another time, perhaps! So instead we set out on a dawdling walk toward Tudweiliog.
We started by joining the Wales Coast Path with a stunning view of fog over Yr Eifl and a picturesque beach below us. My mom also spotted her dream house just off the path, but I can’t imagine the current owners giving up those views any time soon!
I particularly enjoyed listening to the waves crash on the beach. That along with the sea smell reminded me of walking along La Jolla Cove in California. This was about the time I started planning a future weekend getaway to this area, perhaps staying in a B&B and lounging at the seaside or strolling along the coast path.
We spotted Traeth Porthdinllaen as we came around the path, and our first descent of the day was to head down to the beach. (The path took us most of the way there, and it was a quick little side trip to go all the way down.)
From there we headed up toward Morfa Nefyn, where we decided to stop at Caffi Porthdinllaen, a small coffee shop just opposite the National Trust car park. Today was my mom’s birthday, so late morning coffee and cake seemed like the right way to celebrate! It was an excellent decision, leading to very tasty treats and a nice chat with the barista.
From there we entered the golf course — it’s an official part of the pilgrim’s way, as well as the coast path, and our guide book encouraged us to be bold about walking through it. The book also mentioned an optional side path we could take around the thin strip of land containing part of the golf course as well as Porthdinllaen, and given our extra time we decided to explore it. We got a chance to look down on all the fishing boats and cottages from near the point of the tiny peninsula.
In the process we also found a nice place to stop for lunch. As we were finishing up, my brother called and I had the bizarre experience of chatting with him in the US while sitting on the coast in Wales. He looked up a satellite image of our location and got a sense of where we were. (Technology is amazing!) After wishing our mom a happy birthday, we said our goodbyes and continued our walk, soon making our way off the golf course.
In the latter part of the day, we found ourselves playing leapfrog with two other walkers along the coast. We would pass them as they took a break, and later while we rested they would come upon us again, repeating the process throughout the afternoon. We lost track of them near the very end of the day, as we concentrated on finishing up our day, which ended just after we left the coast to walk into the tiny village of Tudweiliog. But as it turns out there aren’t many places to stay in this area, and soon after we sat down for dinner at the hotel our walking buddies came in and sat at the next table over! They are walking part of the coast path while visiting the Llyn Peninsula.
It’s hard to believe that tomorrow is our last walking day; we’re almost done!